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bar called the little shamrock, and it is still there just west of lincoln, just west from ninth avenue. it was built to help service people who were working on the big winter fair. they are still hoping the neighborhood. >> it is an offshoot of the 1892-8093 columbian exposition in chicago. when they were done, san francisco said bring it here. >> that is the chicken ranch. the building to the east of that is the chicken ranch, and you can see beyond to the west all sand dunes and hollows and gullies. that is one of the row houses we were talking about. as late as 1910, there were crackdowns and vice raids
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[laughter] >> that is a good way to say it. >> that is the racetrack grandstand. >> that is huge. >> opening day in 1895 through 14,000 people. they put a train line to it. they had a street car line. it was a big deal in those days, horse racing was. >> reason really interesting progress about car bill. tell us about what cargo was. >> in 1895, adolph sutro owned a couple blocks of land, which were sand dunes. the pavement, the streets. south of golden gate park. there was a train line that brought people from downtown to the beaches. mostly, it was used on sundays. it went along with a good way to the beach. top of that, a few people started using old horse carts, which are essentially street
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cars that were pulled by horses. they became obsolete as cable cars and electric trolleys took over. and they took these old horse cars and made little foot houses out of it -- clubhouses out of them. some of those turned into permanent residences, and you had up to 100 of these little cars all tumbled out there in the sand dunes. >> i remember when i was a kid going out there, some of them with all the way over to the zoo, and they had taken more modern streetcars and made holds out of them by picking them up and putting him on a sandlot. >> after the 1906 earthquake, they put in a lot of electric car lights, so it just kept growing. >> here is a building incorporating cars. >> in the upper story. st. andrew's church. 47th ave. a lot of artists and writers and
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people you might call bohemians at the time went to cargill. it was an artistic place to hang out. you have people going out, maybe getting into landscape, maybe just partying. >> but wasn't there some push back? it had an unsavory reputation. >> in 1913, the lead was settled, and it was supposed to be sold, and a lot of people did not like it because they thought there was a lot of romantic rendezvous happening there that perhaps should not be. they had a ceremony there to burn the car out of cargo, so they have a big bonfire. it was the fourth of july, so they threw some fireworks in, too, and they were trying to announce that it was a new neighborhood. it was respectable. that is essentially the last and best carville house on the highway. two cable cars that are joined together.
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they took out the walls and connected the rope and of course, as a bedroom. and i would like to buy it. >> i think we have a photograph of the inside of one of these cars. >> yes, some of the original cable car bridges are still on the inside. it is a wonderful place. i'm writing a book on carville. that is ucsf. adolph sutro donated the land. >> he had a lot of land. >> did. he bought a rancho in '82, and it was a huge chunk of land in a little peninsula. it took decades for it to fill in with housing. >> when he died, he leapt 1,100 acres to widows and orphans, and his children that truck. they comprise the woods, sherwood forest, forestville. it was a contentious thing.
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it took about 13, 15 years in public. >> this is actually in golden gate park, the casino. it was a controversy at the time to have a place that serve liquor and had card games in golden gate park. eventually, it moved to 24th ave. >> we still have the newly recently refurbished stop along the great highway. the beach shall i -- chalet. i always find it ironic that these federal highway funds were used to refurbish this place for drivers to get a drink. terrific. [laughter] >> there were farms, and there were dairies, as these houses are starting to be built, and they are more conventional residents is, and they are still a farm. in the distance, you can see it is still sand dunes. >> and water once again from
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windmills and wells. >> there is a few small lakes. some of the lakes are natural lakes. they are not all man-made. >> it took a while to get the water lines out there. >> you can see the huge sand dune behind it. it was a challenge to get basic services. people would build houses, and instantly, a huge sand banks would blow in the night and basically close-up people's front doors. they had a lot of development that was needed before they could make a nice place to live. >> this was the park side real estate brochures from about 1913. >> 1908. >> there are pages you can read. inside it shows what you can do. it was so might be developed but never got develop. >> the realty company was going to take all of it and
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essentially the lead in and put houses in there. that was their plan. it was a very nice square grid. so the south side of the sunset is called the park side. i think it would be closer to golden gate park, but it was sort of a realty bargaining scheme because it was mostly sand dunes. the first announcement was that it was much warmer than you would imagine. it is beautiful. there are trees. you could get away from the wind. it is sunny. they were just trying to make it sound good. >> there was a row house down there -- there is still a row house down there. >> you could rent that for your wedding. the boss of san francisco, who was dethroned after the earthquake, he was arrested. they tracked it down there. he was hiding out.
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>> was it still county land at that time? >> city lead. >> this is after it was subdivided into standard lots? >> they are big. anyone who live there, you might have a backyard twice as long as your house. smaller home builders started taking root with larger ones. a lot of times, it was like this. a guy would buy a couple of lots and essentially build two houses and tried to sell them. or live in one. they did that all the way up to the 1940's. one of the last parcels a friend of mine lived on on 28 and cabrilla, which used to be a garbage dump, and in the 1940's, they build it over with sand -- they have lots of that lying around. >> this is parker studio
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boulevard in the richmond district. you are on the road, which is this piece of land. after the 1906 earthquake and fire, there were a refugee camps for and in a lot of the refugee camps, there were earthquake refugee cottages. these were small little portable cottages built on these camps, and the idea was you could live there, and when the camps closed after a bad year, you could take it away to an empty lot. >> you had to buy it. >> you could, but your rent would go towards the purchase price. by the end, they just wanted to get rid of them. >> in 1930, all of these were declared a substandard structures and the city wanted them all destroyed because they were blights. >> but there still are many. how many are left? >> there is at least 30. >> out of 5610 built. >> yes, sir.
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>> i just love to do find out what the orientation of this picture is. part presidio would have run pretty much right through there? >> right. this is reserve as city land for a park. people were really excited because they were just about to start doing some landscaping of the park, and then the earthquake hit, and they said no park. there were going to put thousands of refugees there. the neighbors complained about it until they realized they could sell goods, services, anything to these refugees, and they made a lot of money, so they were ok with it. >> [inaudible] boulevard existing now, or did it come in after this? >> there was no boulevard. it came in in the teens. this was the sunnyside, just northeast of city college. another early land scheme, and
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this is a point you were making, that streetcars were in a very important factor in getting the west side settled. so he built the first electric streetcar in san francisco, and he conveniently had to go right to a bunch of land he owned where he created the sunnyside, which was a suburb. you take the streetcar out to the suburbs. >> outside a town was the way it was described. not that far. >> far enough. and it was not sunday, either. >> again, it is all marketing. >> i'm looking at the names of streets. who got to name the streets in these new sñ what is interestins alphabetical on the sunny side. acadia.
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it is alphabetical. it ended at hamburg. in world war room in one, people did not like it. they thought it was -- world war i, people did not like it. they thought it was too german. >> there are two in bayview hunters. . there is one that treasure island then there is one out there. -- there are two in bayview hunters poitn. -- point. >> they said, we will rename all of the streets. they decided to name them after spanish explorers, which was controversial. they compromised. some of the streets are named after an indian place in yosemite. >> they had the number of
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streets already put in, nice and simple. they wanted to name the other ones, and they wanted to name all of the east-west one's with explorers -- ones with explorers. there was a big complaint about the spanish names. a few of them they kept. these are the park side cottages. as early as 1908, they had a textbook and they said, you can build as cottage. we will give you the plans. take it away. we think about it later, but they were doing it early. >> this is a placard from one of those cooky cutter homes. we talk about housing today. i have two work days. this is 600927 -- 6927.
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they put them on the building of that authority could figure out what you were buying. >> you will see these placards. this is 1930. you can see that it was sand, sand, sand. >> there were train tracks that unloaded in front of us development site. -- in front of this development site. >> these three houses, can you see them? they are still there. people were optimistic. they would buy three lots and say, we will build three two- story houses here and eventually it will fill in.
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it did, but it was three decades. this is sunset boulevard being put in. there were putting in this big boulevard. it is pointing out a goalie in the middle of the sand. -- a gully in the middle of the sand. >> woody was just given this time. >> i have been wanting one of these for years. i know they were at 5300. >> the building is still there. >> they were not the most enlightened company. they were strict about not showing homes to minorities. they got in trouble for that.
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willie brown actually made his name by going and trying to see one of the homes. it was a very political thing. he would walk up with a whole bunch of people in the person showing the home would sneak away. >> even in the teens, there were a lot of neighborhoods that had restrictions against certain groups of people. >> this was in the 1950's. willie mays had trouble buying a house in san francisco. a couple of people would not show him a house. they had to enlist the mayor and a bunch of people. this is their reservoir. companies would take a block and there would start wrecking houses. there were building two a day --
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they were building two with a. the 1930's were the big boom times for the sunset. >> this is a recession. >> these are the homes in west would park. -- in westwood park. >> how did this perform? the composite the assembly -- come's assembly -- composite assembly. >> they would stucco it. they would put chicken wire on it. >> when i inspect buildings that are being remodeled, i see that the chicken wire mesh is completely gone. >> it is galvanized.
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the saltwater was enough to rest it out. >> it people think stucco is waterproof -- it is not waterproof. it sucks the water in. you have to water protect it and paint it. >> the above the low medium that was going on -- the bungalow frenzy that was going on, people were building houses at a remarkable rate in the 1930's. nothing down. you can pay us later. we have to sell this. this is shared in school and the ocean view that it -- this is shariton school and the ocean view dedication. these early neighborhoods, this
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is 1910, they would have to do a lot of things themselves. the first school was built by the neighbors. the district did not have the money or the interest. when they finally got a school the city built, it took 25 years to get it. this is the dedication. >> they have diagonal sheathing. >> they had an architect in charge. you could get rattlesnakes. some of the great homes in san francisco built before the earthquake had diagonal sheeting. all of the joints had to be cut at a 45 degree-angle. this had diagonal sheathing. >> much more effective. >> those three buildings are still there in the ocean view. that is the twin peaks tunnel hiding behind that building.
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that was a big deal for getting a lot of the neighborhoods that we were talking about. anglesite terraces, forest hill, and will side -- ingleside. it would cut the commute time. it made home building and buying a ridiculous proposition. the tunnel would solve the problems. there is the tunnel. 1915, they're building the tunnel. >> 1920-something. >> they used to decorate the tunnel for christmas. why don't they do that now? >> it obstructs the actual portal. >> west portal went from, maybe
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it will be ok, and then the cars to over. -- cars took over. >> it kind of looks that way now. this is the ocean view we were talking about. most of that is gone now. >> golden gate heights. >> 1928. that is 16th avenue down there in front of us. lots of sand dunes. houses are starting to take over. we have a later photo coming up. >> and nuance. it is there because no one wanted to live on 13th avenue. there is no 13th ave. >> there is the sunset reservoir and the sand dunes. they were building houses right on the dunes.
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that is 28. that is the same view in 1990. >> and the park is there. much better. >> this is westwood park. it used to be called residential park. the idea was that instead of having a bar next door to your house, this would be an exclusive residential community. the street should follow the land. they had curvilinear streets. they had decorative vases, stairways. the whole idea was someone would come home from work and he should be elevated and think great thoughts. he should not be in the hustle and bustle of the urban environment. there were very restrictive. they tried to say you had to
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have certain setbacks and you could not use buildings for other than the residents, and you could not be a minority unless you had permission. that was a big problem. >> they are still here. you can see this place. >> i am not positive i know where this is. can you aureate me? >> that is ocean avenue on the bottom left. the center line of that is myrmar ave. what is there that anybody would know? there are two gates. on the monterey side, there's a beautiful ornamental gate that welcomes people. all bungalows. >> what do you mean by that? >> traditionally, it is all on of little half story -- it is up on a little half story.
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they are smaller homes. there were supposed to be within reach of the average working man. >> architecturally, the bomb blows -- bungalows were derived from craftsman style and affected by the mission revival. this is a very attractive neighborhood. for years, i would appraise in this neighborhood and think, these homes are lovely. they have fairly large lots. they are set back. they are attractive treescapes. they were very under-valued. that has not been the case for 10 or more years. >> ingleside was more of a
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hodgepodge. it developed piecemeal. it was not macro planned in any way. >> this looks like it was over the track, but it is not. >> you will find early reports of people saying it was a dog racing track. >> this is the racing track. this is on the southwest side. >> ingleside terraces. it is the same thing with the residents park. we will have a giant sundial with a reflecting pond. it has pillars around each end. it has an ionic column. it was supposed to be a commemoration of the panama canal opening. he had these girls dancing at
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the dedication. he had a baby being pushed in a carriage. the sundial was dedicated at night. it is kind of a strange little thing. it is there and you can go see it. this is another before and after shot that shows it around 1900. this is in the 1950's. they started carving away. that building is still there. it is where the lakeside district is. i like the rocket. a well-known builder in the area, an admirer of henry ford, the idea of getting this down, having an assembly line, build this in quick-style. this is a 1932 -- i think he
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built this house. he was a pragmatic businessman. this has spanish colonial revival elements. a few years later, it is streamlined. modern. stylo-crat. it is better than being aristocratic. to sell them, he had to come up with clever names like that. like lafayette. he went with the popular taste. when the modern architecture started coming in, he was happy because it was less work. >> very little detail. you see detail in brought the city. people took tract homes and
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tried to individualize them in various ways throughout the cities. here is an example of how they might have done that. >> they had a lot of medallions and reliefs. >> the working class would go out to go swimming in the ocean. the wealthy would stay downtown like in the marines memorial or the elk and they would have heated saltwater. people wanted to swim in salt water. >> how did the water get there? >> there was a pipe that allowed it to flow all the way down. that pipe rusted out. people went swimming in the
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saltwater pools and they had different temperatures. >> you could have a cold swim or a warm swim. >> how did they heat this? >> he had a huge boiler. they're still trying to figure out exactly how he sucked in the sea water. he had a pumping system. >> didn't sutro make his initial fortune by being the engineer who figured out how to ventilate the mines at virginia city? >> that is the way he would phrase it. >> he drained them for water, not for air. >> he got backers for the tunnel. he said, we need this tunnel for safety, for air, for ventilation. he got this tunnel built and he got people to back it. just before it opened, it